America’s leading authoritarian intellectual (lol) once called it “Proust on clothes”. Let’s hope he was less wrong about my book than all his fascist/racist stuff.
@dieworkwear
“why does menswear guy have to make everything political? there’s nothing political about urban planning, modes of consumption, or social hierarchies.”
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@sciolisticism
Uber driver: “your ride is here.”
Menswear Guy: “actually my ride began in 1809 when a young Beau Brummell appropriated the casual riding wear that noblemen wore in the countryside and made its garments the fashionable dress grammar in town.”
@dieworkwear
At the end of a party I threw in grad school the last few of us had a drawn out discussion with a guy who tried to convince us that Kentucky Fried Chicken changed its name to KFC because it could no longer call the headless monstrosities it had genetically engineered “chicken”…
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@ianjhurst
@localabamon
Only fools believe meritocracy exists currently, or that one can define merit without following the normative contours of systemic bias
@KillJamesBond
JORDAN PETERSON: “And there’s this quiet fellow <sniffs>, Vargas. And <sniffles> Vargas doesn’t… doesn’t drink. He <voice quavers> doesn’t smoke. <single tear forms> He doesn’t <voice breaks> make love. <tears flowing> What does Vargas <sobs> DO????”
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@layerzerojack
Thanks Derek. Drakes used to have a little hidden MD on the content label but doesn’t always have it anymore although they also are focusing on their own Drakes-labeled production more. Seaward & Stearn has a little “VII-Fold” on the label even though their ties aren’t.
Almost everyone assumes
@dieworkwear
is obsessed with classic menswear (ie suits) since he talks about them so much. But what he’s actually talking about is respectability politics: people using suits to project authority or moral, intellectual or cultural superiority.
@dieworkwear
@layerzerojack
Drakes bought Cravats of London some years ago which took one competitor off the market. Another maker some tailors use is Hunters, a successor to the old Holliday & Brown. Their ties have a little bugle on the content label. Others have used Vanners, which makes ties as well as
OK, entering the menswear guy’s breach again. This poast in derek’s tweetthread about the shallowness of most media about luxury fashion, especially luxury craft fashion like custom shoemakers, got stuck in my head like a Steven Seagal Epic Guitar Solo. Let’s explicate/explode it
Articles about luxury fashion often follow a formula: allude to aspirational lifestyles, use vague words like "quality," and reference famous customers (e.g., Old Money and celebs). Here's an excerpt about GJ Cleverley:
@dieworkwear
He had two books out for those of us too cowardly to get a tattoo. And sells temporary tattoos. I played with putting a few on my shoes to imitate the Berluti shoe tattooing.
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@man2deeep
@voxsartoria
And in common parlance the terms are often used interchangeably. A decade ago savile row tailors sued a company advertising its factory made to measure suits were “ bespoke “ and a court ruled that there wasn’t a legal definition of bespoke that restricted it to what derek & I
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@CarlosRsuccess
I mean one is an awesomely cool looking star and the other Ben Shapiro, which is to say I don’t know Ben would look cool in the other guys get up
@AliceAvizandum
And hey, let’s not forget the government in power asked the Brits if they wanted to send a ship over to pick up the Romanovs and George V was like,,,,,,, I’ll pass.
@dieworkwear
Light fabrics like zephyr weave cotton or a light linen can help. Same for tropical weave wool. Not sure what your reply guy was on about saying overweight men in tropical climates should wear chains.
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@jonahrexer
Note that reknitting is a different skill than reweaving. For sweaters I use Knit Alteration and Design in Washington state - excellent work but there’s a long wait. And all of these repairs will cost a great deal.
@dieworkwear
Maybe we step back and consider how historically perhaps a lot of men’s fashion has been set by teh gheyz and then decades later looks normal enough for fash creeps to wear
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@princess_worms
Imagining some square in Quantico reading your message derek and muttering, “We’re not the _Fashion_ Bureau of Investigation.”
hi new readers. Derek’s earned the name Mahatma Jawndi on one of the clothes forums and he certainly has the patience of a great soul to be trying to discuss menswear here in 280 characters. I notoriously am not concise so bear with me.
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@GammasRaze
One of the great things about Menswear Guy is he is one of about three people in this space who is not doing ads or sponcon, or trying to get free stuff.
He knows just as much about casual or cutting edge fashion as the suit but most readers assume they know enough about informal dress and dismiss cutting edge stuff so what he ends up getting prompted about ends up being tailoring.
@dieworkwear
@flgatorking1987
“Side effects may include idiopathic toe walking. If effects continue for over four hours, get your feet into the tallest-heeled pair of shit-kicking cowboy boots stat.”
@kittensnotkids
@prince_bazemore
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@J_Carlyle_
Some had a valet dress them. So perhaps it is the valet who was well dressing rather than them being well dressed. I dunno, Derek asked me to name well dressed idiots and here we are. Being well dressed doesn’t mean a god damn thing about personal (non-financial) worth,