Torsten
@SartorialNotes
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Bespoke, classic menswear. Author of two critically acclaimed books on menswear. Based in Europe. Follow at:
Joined February 2011
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A Woodhouse 6-ply suiting from the early 1980s, arguably the finest suit cloth ever made. At a distance, this one looks navy, however it’s only an effect from a combination of black, royal blue, red and green yarns
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Color harmony. Well chosen shirt, tie and loafers for the suits. Firenze
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How to fold a bespoke jacket for the suitcase, so that you protect cloth and interlining as much a possible
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The raglan, perhaps the most popular classic overcoat at the moment. Its inherently roomy cut is an easy way to break free from the outdated slim-fit fashion
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King Felipe, this is how a shirt should fit, smooth across the shoulders and chest. Also appropriate collar size. The initials (Felipe Bourbon) quite high on the chest. Normally they sit just below the chest. But you decide yourself, especially as a king
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You can, of course, put on a white shirt in the morning, but it works better in the evening. During the day it can appear too polished. Instead, wear a light blue, blue-striped, cream, or other colorful shirt, like this red-striped shirt on Fabrizio Servente, director at Woolmark
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I saw Gaetano Aloisio, perhaps the most successful tailor in Rome nowadays, at the Pitti Uomo fair in Florence last week. He was in jacket with sharp shoulders and chest, about the opposite of a drape cut
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Bespoke trousers I had made from Japanese denim. I like the newly pressed look. Perhaps I should starch them 🫤
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Heavy tweed, sturdy cotton twill and brogues, because they go well together
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Sunday attire. Slack jacket (tweed from Fox), cashmere jumper (Bottigiani), old shirt made from Alumo Suprastretch (bad name, great fabric)
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Today’s attire. A Loris Vestrucci suit and a Frank Foster shirt
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Longer jacket, lower buttoning point, wider trousers. The best Brunello Cuccinello I’ve seen. Florence three days ago
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I met Alexander in Copenhagen yesterday. The monochrome look. Can anyone guess who he works for?
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Antonio Liverano, owner of today’s most known tailor in Florence, Liverano. His brother, Luigi, was the master and founder. After his early death Antonio took over
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I realise that these photos may make people smile. Technically, however, you're witnessing bespoke tailoring at the highest level. Balance and fit are simply flawless. German tailor Werner Losberg
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The 1980s and 1990s are the main trend in classic menswear today
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Black tassel loafers are for navy blue suits. Jermyn Street, London
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Old linen suit from a Florentine tailor and a shirt with a soft pointed collar. Linen is the best way to dress down a suit in warmer months
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The longest trouser crease you’ll see today (bespoke from Arnulf in Potsdam)
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New suit from an old style, coarse fresco weave called SpringRam (sorry for the unruly collar point, tie blades and handkerchief)
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Bespoke shoes, Vienna tradition, which gives you enough room for your toes!
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Jacket too short, trousers too narrow, shirt collar too low
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I have two suits from it. The drape is unbelievable. But you have to accept a lot of surface interest and an old worldly sturdiness
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A heavy whipcord suit. A garment you can't wear out, only grow out of
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Blue Wednesday, a 14 year old bespoke navy herringbone suit. Navy herringbone is slightly more formal than the typical day-to-day navy serge cloth. A good choice for an evening suit as well
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Don’t do this at home. Fabrizio Servente playing with the tie like Gianni Agnelli could have done
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Today in a Solaro suit and a linen-cotton shirt. With a Solaro suit I find a saturated light blue shirt to be the best option. Instead of a red tie you can tie a blue one
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Prince Michael of Kent has kept the high collar and large knot from the 1970s, and he has made them his style
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Fitting today of a db from SpringRam, an old style fresco cloth
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You can use tweed, heavy cottons and other rustic cloth in the city if you combine them with a blue shirt and tie
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The Loden Coat, a classic connected to Vienna, Northern Italy and Munich in particular
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New linen/cotton shirt. Without a jacket we should wear more coloured shirts. White and sky blue ones are made for jackets
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A double breasted tweed jacket is not illegal but unusual. Perhaps better to leave it for an experienced man like Servente in this photo to don it
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Fabio in a 3-piece Donegal tweed suit. The flecks characterise the cloth
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People just don’t understand how to differ between body and clothing. Anybody with a bit of knowledge about tailoring will have to admit that Xi’s suit fits at least as well as Biden’s, if not better. Biden’s jacket look a bit large in the collar
America retains a decisive advantage in tailoring
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Ethan Newton from Bryceland’s is a sartorial avant-gardist, one of the few. It's always exciting to see what he comes up with. This linen attire is from June during the Pitti Uomo fair in Florence
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Navy suit, white shirt and black necktie, to me a style connected to the early 1960s
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The less we wear suits, the more dark and formal they become. The informal suit has almost disappeared, and if we suddenly see it, it causes a stir, as we saw with Obama's tan suit
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I have a soft spot for the 1970s use of a neckerchief with a tailored jacket
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Glen check duel. Butler and Fabio at The British Institute in Florence
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Larsen, the Danish Parisian tailor, who introduced pleats in modern suit trousers around 1910
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The original fur-collared casentino overcoat is orange. I’ve been tempted to order one for 20 years but I’m not brave enough
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The three-button coat, the original suit jacket, is it a thing of the past? Since the 1970s taste has shifted to a two-button coat (or a three-button coat with a hidden upper button). Felipe in the photo also only wears a two-button coat today
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You want a small knot on the summer neckerchief. Very thin silk or cotton batiste is the solution
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Good taste. Hard to do a blue blazer attire better than Valentino Ricci does here
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A double breasted Fall suit that buttons at the lower button
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Usually you will place brace buttons on the inside of the trouser waistband but you can also attach them to the outside of your trousers. More showy. At Walker Slater’s
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It's a misconception that many men have that colours in an outfit shouldn't be matched - that you shouldn't care about such things. But you have to do that. In addition to a good fit, there must be a harmonious interplay between colours (and patterns and fabrics)
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Florentine shirtmaker Leonardo Bugelli yesterday in a bespoke casentino overcoat
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G7 1982. A plaid suit is unthinkable today in top politics. Now we have silly socks and dress sneakers
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Here to stay, popover and turn-ups, 1874 (Carl Bloch) vs 2024 (Care of Carl)
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People tend to overlook the greyish bottle green overcoat as a formal overcoat option. I find it quite versatile, though
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Tan cord trousers or grey flannels with a brown tweed jacket?
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Tailor Rudolf Niedersüß, owner of the renowned Knize shop in Vienna since 1976. Architect Adolf Loos has designed the interior
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Big Boss. The late 1980s and the oversize suit not seen since the 1940s
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The British Royal Family in Isle of Wight, 1857. Prince Alfred in a double breasted suit. Probably the oldest existing photo of the modern suit
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Brunello Cucinelli the other day in Florence flanked by two fans. His successful clothing brand, which bears his name, epitomises the quiet luxury that the fashion press is writing about nowadays
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A local tailor has just finished this dinner jacket for a friend of mine. Shawl collar, pockets and button positions look very well-balanced to me
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