Fazlina *The Green Chemist*
@BieWaldorf
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Cosmetic chemist. Formulator. Beauty warrior advocating safe cosmetics. Into travelling, natural cosmetics & desserts ;)
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Joined October 2011
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I think people gets confused because of how we interpret the word 'concentration'. Lets see if I can make this easier to understand. Let's try to write down the formulation for Rose Hydrosol Toner (an example).
.
A thread.
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I baru perasan Skintific now dah declare kat kotak that it is manufactured in China. Masa mula2 this brand naik dulu, bila tanya their PR team, pusing2 kata formulated in Canada when asked where is it made.
Nothing wrong with China, just that I don't like that kind of mislead.
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Sampai sekarang seller tu tak reply my question on keratin source produk viral tu. Dia cuma reply the keratin is from animal, not pig n Halal. I was hoping for some sort of verification. Maybe P&C kot. Cuma being in this industry, I know nak dptkan Halal Keratin is so difficult.
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I'm not gonna comment the efficacy of the product yg dijual ni. But I think ramai orang confuse difference between alcohol sanitizer and surface disinfectant.
This is a thread.
Our KKM has already concluded that there is no proof the effectiveness of these Nano Silver Sanitizer Spray. Don’t fall for it guys, benda ni guna nak sedap hati je. Go to Shopee and Read 3 star reviews and below to know the truth.
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Kalau Rice Ferment Filtrate haram, what about SKII? Kan Pitera™ terhasil dari penapaian sake jugak?
Hi semua. The short version is - SKII produk yang ada Pitera™ boleh digunakan, basically Halal.
But why?
I baca qRT ramai yg question juga kenapa haram, bukan minum/consume pun. And perfume yang terang2 ada alkohol boleh pulak pakai? Dua isu ni I akan jelaskan dalam qRT yang lain nanti ye.
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FYI, Malaysia cosmetic regulation says any product sold in Malaysia needs to state on their packaging the country of manufacturing. So masa diorg just tulis Formulated in Canada tu, mmg ada kesalahan di situ.
Justified lah why it can sell lower price with those ingredients.
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FYI, there's no more animal testing for cosmetics now. Haven't been done in years. Its been banned, China was the last country to do so if I'm not mistaken.
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I actually pernah wrote about sunscreen uv filters and testing. But not in my blog, i content-create for one local founder. Its very technical, starting from how matahari gives off radiation n so on. I'll try explain on spf testing here.
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A thread.
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I know ramai org guna Baby cream ni tapi dlm tu ada essential oils yg tak suitable for babies. So kalau u guna, make sure monitor skin dia - ada redness, irritation; baby's breathing dan take note kalau baby nampak tak selesa. Tu je I boleh advice since I taktahu the actual %.
Combo dua beradik ni
Hari ke empat, turun dari Orchid Forest, Attar start flu. Sbb atas sana sejuk yakmat. Malam tu before dia tidur, i urut badan dia dgn Tropika cream then tampal patch ni atas dada dia. Alhamdulillah malam tu dia tidur lena sampai esoknya.
Tropika herbal
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Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake) ni adalah bahan aktif kosmetik yang menggunakan proses penapaian beras dengan yis utk menghasilkan alkohol dan gula.
Hasilnya, sugar alcohol ni ada kandungan polisakarida yang bermanfaat pada kulit sebagai bahan pelembap, anti-penuaan & pencerahan.
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They put Made in PRC instead of China. 😎 Nothing wrong, its just marketing.
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Persekitaran boleh merubah cara DNA kita 'dibaca' (translated). These changes is call Epigenetics.
In short, persekitaran boleh merubah our intelligence, alter our epigenetics, and can be passed to our offsprings.
Boleh rujuk kajian di bawah, paling terbaru (2020) oleh Nature. Kecerdasan bukan sahaja disumbangkan dari genetik ibu bapa, malah dari latar belakang pendidikan ibu bapa dan persekitarannya.
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Can't say I 100% agree on this. As a formulator, actually the dosage or % of Ceramide used are relatively tiny. Can see most korean brands label them in ppm (parts per million) coz it doesn't need that much to work anyway.
I agree Ceramide is a huge molecule and it is a lipid,
1. Ceramide
Untuk acne-prone skin, ceramides can be a little too rich. Anda akan jumpa ceramide dalam heavy formulated moisturizer, jadi dia boleh jadikan liang pori-pori anda tersumbat.
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Dearest
@JKJAVMY
@protecthealthco
@aafaizli
@Khairykj
@KKMPutrajaya
.
Boleh ke suka2 je PPV swasta tutup klinik sebab sibuk pergi vaccine kan kilang, dan biarkan rakyat biasa yang dah ada appointment terkontang kanting pergi ke klinik yg ditutup tanpa apa-apa notifikasi?
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@AdibaRahman
Semalam delivery guy hilang ic. Call balik dah petang2 minta tengokkan depan pintu rumah ada tercicir tak. Hope semuanya selesai :(
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Kalau nak tahu, antara main reason why local products susah nak masuk drugstore bukan sebab tak berkualiti, tapi sebab buffer stock tak mencukupi.
8 years back, kalau nak masuk this one particular drugstore, u need 25,000 unit products ready on hand bila2 store minta replenish.
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Hi semua.
Disebabkan oleh thread saya pasal Sake/Rice Ferment Filtrate haritu, ramai yang komen dan DM tanya pasal some skincare products yang ada variation of this ingredient.
So, I want to address these issue sekaligus here.
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@wanshah07
yes betul, Malaysia ikut Asean guideline which follows the EU kan? Oh Malaysia termasuk dalam country kene tulis full manufacturer address ke?
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Jap. Aih. Bila tgk ingredient list pada label tak sama pulak dgn ingredient list KeraVeg18 ni. Hmm. I really want to be wrong here
@needsofficialhq
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Ceramide & Skin Barrier.
Kita selalu dengar yang Ceramide is one of the best ingredient for repairing skin barrier. And ramai juga di twitter yang explain what skin barrier is. But in reality, tak ramai yang rasa perlu guna ceramide, unless you have acne or very dry skin.
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Every product with Salicylic Acid will work great against acne IF it is well formulated.
Salicylic acid 'unclog' pores means it dissolve sebum inside skin pores (coz its oil-soluble), keratolytic (able to remove accumulated dead skin that's trap inside pores).
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So tak kesah ada filtration atau tidak, yang pastinya sugar alcohol itu adalah bahan utama. Since Mufti pun dah keluarkan hukum mengatakan ianya haram, maka penggunaan produk dengan Rice Ferment / Rice Ferment Filtrate / Sake adalah haram.
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@KalifPoi23
@nahlahrsl
Just watched the Cocoa episode in 'Rotten' on Netflix. Industry price are control by London but the real farmers in Afrika are suffering.
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Be careful when choosing product containing AHA's. They only work at low acidic pH. A close to neutral pH might not have AHA activity at all.
Don't just read the ingredient list. Formulation matters.
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Since ada yg tanya secare detail pasal Keratin, I nak try explain kenapa it is a concern for me, same goes to collagen.
Thread ni sedikit teknikal ya.
@BieWaldorf
Miss, mohon buat thread cerita sikiy on how keratin is obtained and made into cosmetic product please. I need to be educated on this.
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Ada something yang happen this week. Taktau sebenarnya nak gelak ke nak nanges 😅
Cerita dia mcm ni. I made this Eyebrow Pomade in 2018 - 5 years ago untuk benchmark Tarte Amazonian Clay Eyebrow Mousse.
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@Opieeya
Alamak sorry, I tak pasti. Kalau nappy rash I guna cream nappy rash with zinc oxide yg warna putih tu. Utk moisturize all over baby's body I pakai Cetaphil Daily Lotion or if ada rashes, guna yg Candelula Lotion. Basically, any mint family essential oil tak sesuai utk babies.
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Microbial contamination is something we cannot see with naked eye. Most homemade product didn't undergo microbial testing. As much as you want to support them, be aware of the risk on YOUR skin.
What I see happen with these natural businesses is in the beginning things are great at first. But then as they get more traction and these customers start to have products for a few weeks...things go bad. Separation. Mold. Changes in color. Now they’re getting bad press :(
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Just nak share something from program our company buat semalam.
Bila kita berdoa pada Allah, kan kita selalu minta hajat apa yg kita inginkan. I don't know org lain mcm mana, tapi I selalu akan minta benda yg I fikir logik boleh dapat. Tak pernah terfikir nak minta apa2 yg
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Tak logic dan tak sesuai kan?
Sebab tu KKM tak approved water-based disinfectant sebagai hand sanitizer. Boleh rujuk website NPRA untuk maklumat lanjut.
Sebab tak logic. You tak boleh touch apa2 selama 10minit, dan kene pastikan tangan tu kekal basah.
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Animal testing issue is on the rise yesterday because of the documentary Save Ralph.
Yes. It is heart breaking. As a cosmetic formulator, I still see/read clinical studies of ingredients that shows picture of their test rabbit.
Its horrifying. And extremely sad to see. 1/
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@NabellaAnuar
Also policy Indonesia sendiri yang mudahkan local brand flourish. Outside brand nak masuk Indonesia market not easy. Byk regulations and documentations kene prepare.
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@InjangNation
Nak jadi cosmetic/skincare/color cosmetic chemist boleh start dgn ambil degree applied chemistry. Ramai je formulator hebat2 kat msia, buat formula bagus sampai boleh jual ke luar negara. No need krim timbang kilo.
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Just a little reminder bagi yang nak keluar beraya esok, UV Index from 12 to 2 pm di KL adalah sangat tinggi. UVI guideline mengesyorkan extra protection diperlukan - so wear your sunglasses, apply enough sunscreen, stay indoor as much as possible and drink plenty of water k!
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Of course, if you are furious at all these brands that comply to China animal testing law, by all means stop buying them.
But ask yourself, if the brand did animal testing <5 years ago n now has stop, what's your stand on that?
And if not animal, how are your product tested?
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I'll be spamming my timeline with Covid-19 stories. For those having trouble convincing their families to take vaccine, do send to them.
My tips, jgn argue teruk2 (maki etc) if ur family members forward info salah/antivac, but keep telling them how much u love them.
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She took RM28 only, which she admit. Bail was set to RM2K. Didn't have the money so she was jailed.
What are we becoming???
Ibu tunggal. Anak kecil usia 4tahun. Kerja cuci masjid. 😔
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Sama juga kalau you all nak guna alcohol-free disinfectant utk disinfect rumah. Kene make sure selesai contact time baru boleh lap permukaan tu. Kalau sembur2 lepas tu terus touch, kesan antibakteria tu tak berlaku.
So please sanitize your hand and disinfect your home properly.
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This is very good news. Ppl can still get infected with Covid19 even after fully vaccinated. CDC says they could still serious symptoms.
But study in India looking at Indian variance says no death even for ppl vaccinated with 1dose only.
Vaccine works!
Results of a study that involved the variants of concern (B.1.617.2 and B.1.1.7)
This shows that If you were infected with covid before, you still should get the covid vaccine
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Okey, dah dapat jawapan. Terima kasih 🙂
Due to recent speculation , we would like to clarify that our source of Keratin is from a plant based sources 🥕🥕 and Needs Keratin is made from Fision KeraVeg18 which is a vegetable-based alternative for animal based keratin
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@xhuankenot
Keratin, collagen yes. Lecithin maybe, tapi now mostly uses plant sources and dalam skincare formulation pun usually very minimal dosage je ditambah.
I would say Ceramides too, tapi itu more on keberkesanan / misinformation on so-called 'plant ceramides'.
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@bumilangit
@chedetofficial
As if we don't matter. Our lives doesn't matter. Teringat peristiwa heavily pregnant+hampir pitam beratur mengundi GE14 lepas. Sacrificing life & unborn child for this circus.
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Kalau pakai retinol/Vit A sbb acne, know that acne flare up masa pregnant coz of hormon, retinol won't help much. Just guna soothing & moisturizing skincare sahaja. Your skin sgt perlukan 2 function ni.
Ni perkara serius. Boleh datangkan risiko kecacatan janin. Jangan bangga kalau buat benda macam ni.
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@00000q7
@myth_mystic
@anas_ahassan
@kclee1987
@bernamadotcom
@AzminAli
There's a lot of huge, international factory based in kulim utilizing mid n high level technical staff, and a lot of expatriates too. Landing in penang airport is such a hassle coz of the narrow road and bad traffic in-out of the island.
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@brgsjks
I ada buat cara ni masa puasa haritu, and kurang kencing = more water retention.
500ml air + 1 slice lemon + 1 sudu kecil madu + 1/4 sudu kecil garam.
It provides electrolytes dengan calorie yg sikit, sedap tak rasa terpaksa minum & kurang ke tandas berbanding biasa.
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There's so much misinformation about sunscreen on tiktok, yang komen semua telan bulat2 the misinformation. Sometimes rasa nak buat content kat tiktok tapi tiada kerajinan plus segan.
Tapi marah betul rasanya, especially bila yg misinform tu yg terpelajar mcm Dr or pharmacist.
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Sebab utamanya adalah Rice Ferment Filtrate (Sake) dibuat untuk industry arak. So walaupun guna dalam kosmetik, sapu dan bukan consume, tak menjadikan kita mabuk, tapi asal usul penghasilannya untuk arak itu adalah haram,dan apa2 pembelian yang support industry arak adalah haram.
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Kat sini is where >60% alcohol wins.
Sanitizer dengan jumlah alcohol (ethanol atau isopropyl alcohol) 60% ke atas dapat bunuh 99.9% bakteria dalam masa 15 hingga ke 30saat sahaja.
Ni masa yg mencukupi untuk kita gosok ke seluruh tangan, sebelum alkohol tersebut meruap.
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pada Allah, yakin dan tawakal. Kalau Allah nak bagi, Dia boleh bagi wpun u rasa impossible.
So, jgn malu minta pada Allah, percaya Allah dengar segala rintihan, luahan dan doa kita, dan serahkan semuanya pada Dia. Mungkin u akan dapat lebih lagi dari jangkauan.
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Berbanding bahan aktif antibakteria yang lain seperti Benzalkonium Chloride, ia memerlukan 5 hingga 10 minit untuk menghapuskan 99.9% bakteria.
Benzalkonium Chloride adalah water soluble, jadi boleh larut dalam air. Nak nampak sedap, org sebut 'water-based', non alcohol.
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Pandangan peribadi saya tentang keadaan kilang yang hasilkan produk lipmatte yang viral di tiktok semalam:
1. Adakah ini keadaan/cara biasa kilang isi lipmatte?
Tidak. Sepatutnya ia menggunakan mesin filling khas diperbuat dari stainless steel yang mudah dicuci bersih & boleh
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Sebenarnya, sanitization dan disinfectant boleh digunakan interchangeably. Keduanya bertujuan matikan bakteria gram positive & gram negative (bactericidal effect).
Ujian standard untuk pastikan keberkesanan produk adalah EN104O, European Standard.
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@ipanstar
As a cosmetic chemist, mmg tak tahan bila product mislead mcm ni. Wht the brand mean actually is, aloe vera dalam tu adalah 100% asli, bukan campuran gel pokok aloe vera dengan lab-manufactured aloe vera. I know, its confusing. Its marketing.
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Update mengenai sunscreen Purito. Issue asalnya adalah nilai SPF sebenar produk tersebut jauh lebih rendah (SPF19) berbanding label (SPF50).
Setelah investigate, Purito mengakui mmg berlaku. Mereka akan discontinue produk tersebut& stop gunakan kilang tu sebagai manufacturer.
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@CariApetu
Bukan semua essential oil tak boleh guna. Contoh mcm Lavender, its fine for babies kalau diformulasi mengikut had dermal limit. Antara yg tak sesuai utk babies adalah eucalyptus, peppermint, orange/lemon (skin sensitivity issue), clove (cengkih), cinnamon (kayu manis).
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Exactly! Almost 10 years ago I made my first sunscreen. Calculated as SPF30 as per % of UV Filter but results comes as SPF4. I stop formulating and learn more, and started again after 7 years with consistent results now. Even now, can't say 100% the value will remain exactly.
There will be a lot more sunscreen scandals to come. This shows that sunscreen testing and development is not perfect. Factors that affect SPF: antioxidants, SPF boosters, film formers, the form of filter used (large aggregates or micronized), testing methodology etc.
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@lisniski
Masa baby saya batuk, selalunya bermula dgn selsema/hingus, bila hidung tersumbat akan jadi kahak/batuk. So saya pastikan guna Spring Water nasal spray utk clearkan hidung dia, buat 2-3kali sehari. Utk batuk, saya dptkan ubat titis di klinik pakar kanak2 & guna teknik tepuk2..
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@famen91
@aziziala1979
@malaymail
No need to talk about politics. Immune system is much more complex. High consumption of water does not help, it could even cause toxicity and diluted body electrolytes = cause more harm.
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Morning semua. Harini I nak share a bit more about Micellar Water. I rasa very interesting to see kebanyakan kita associate MW sebagai makeup remover.
Sebenarnya, masa teknologi MW ni mula2 diketengahkan, konsep yang dibawa adalah 'Waterless Cleansing' = cuci muka tanpa air.
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Friendly reminder:
Semua product makeup pun perlu ada notifikasi KKM ye. Every color code. Ramai yg terlepas pandang pasal ni.
Just because it just sits on top of your skin doesn't mean tak perlu patuh regulasi KKM ye.
Ingat kilang yg filling lipmatte pakai piping bag tu?
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Kalau baca summary dari supplier Sake untuk kosmetik ni, dia sendiri mengaku syarikat yang menghasilkan arak kini jual jugak bahan ni untuk kosmetik, so terang2 kalau kita guna, kita support industry arak. That’s why jatuh hukum Haram.
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Tapi water based disinfectant ni tak sesuai utk guna pada tangan, hanya sesuai untuk permukaan keras dan tidak menyerap (non-porous surface).
Kalau nak guna this kind of 'water-based disinfectant' pada tangan, you kene pastikan tangan basah disaluti disinfectant selama 10min.
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I understand we all are very moved by
#SaveRalph
. But please double check your facts before spreading information. Not everything you Google is accurate.
Let's turn this into something positive (eg. gov policy, gov aid for alternative testing machine etc).
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diluar logik realiti my life. Contoh mcm minta dapat beli rumah 1juta cash. I would think, kalau ada cash byk tu pun I won't use that to buy a house. Always fikir logik nya.
But what I learn yesterday, sebenarnya 'How' tu bukan urusan kita. Sebagai makhluk, minta lah apa sahaja
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@shoreaskin
Baik2, thanks for the clarification. Nanti i attached bawah tweet I tu. N mungkin HQ boleh betulkan juga misinformation from your seller ni.
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Kenapa I suka cakap pasal cleansers? Sebab cleansing is the single most important step yang boleh change how your other skincare works.
Ramai org ambil mudah beli cleanser. Dah habis, asal rembat je apa yg mudah n murah.
Invest in cleansers. 1 step that determines all other.
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Us chemists in Malaysia should really take advantage of the sunscreen regulation here (Msia follows EU regulation).
Formulating sunscreen aren't easy, but if we have to adhere to FDA rules it makes it almost impossible to do.
Our skin tone does not like white cast.
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Tengah scroll and baca research journals, tiba2 ternampak research pasal '5 Seconds Rule'. Ala yang kata kalau makanan terjatuh within 5 saat boleh je makan, tak bahaya. Rupanya memang ada orang buat research 😱. Ingatkan simply benda yg org saje sebut.
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If an active ingredient is not safe to be used, it won't be allowed to use at all.
Some are used but in limited dose, and with caution to be put on label.
Eg: Salicylic Acid. Its still safe. But the max dosage is there as buffer, precautionary, in case you over do it.
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@MaisarahMahmud
First one with HA most probably more for strengthening barrier, locking more moisture. 2nd one for topping up elements for skin moisturization (vit b3, b5, cq10)
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Bila dah lepasi ujian ini, barulah produk boleh dilabel 'membasmi 99.9% bakteria'.
Tetapi ada syarat, yang ni ramai yang tak tahu atau terlepas pandang.
Kriteria utama untuk bahan itu berupaya membunuh bakteria adalah 'contact time' yang diperlukan oleh bahan aktif
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Dah lama tak share work stuff.
Today I'm formulating sunscreen stick.
I super love the convenience of a sunscreen stick - no messy hand, reapply anytime & so easy to carry.
Lagi2 tengah cuaca panas with high UVI ni, takboleh depend on morning sunscreen application je!
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@Ashraaaafff
@anas_cik
This is so true. Kids only know whats real by wht people around them do. I had a not so happy childhood. N only when i was in Uni, i realized that family do sit together n bergurau mesra. I grew up believing that only happens in tv shows.
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@chairmanGLC
My friend bawak beg plastik. Yep literally bag plastik beli grocery tu. Reason is kadang2 dia masuk lambat (which is not a problem pun) but dia segan org tanya. So bwk beg plastic as if baru turun pegi kedai/klinik sekejap.
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I baca qRT ramai yg question juga kenapa haram, bukan minum/consume pun. And perfume yang terang2 ada alkohol boleh pulak pakai? Dua isu ni I akan jelaskan dalam qRT yang lain nanti ye.
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@AzminAli
Singapore has a new construction cluster
Yesterday's 'highest ever spike' was 142 - today it is twice that, at 287. More than half are migrant workers. Many migrant worker dormitories, construction sites, and shopping point Mustafa Centre have also become one mega cluster.
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@zamirmohyedin
Saya tak marah tau, jujurnya saya dulu pun researcher juga sebelum masuk ke industri. Mmg byk jaw-dropping innovation dihasilkan, tapi sampai situ shj selalunya. Kalau 'hype' mcm ni membantu, I'd say why not.
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@_Yusirah
1. Semua hand sanitizer kene berdaftar dgn Kosmetik KKM.
2. Kalau tiada 60%alcohol dan cuma water-based antibacterial, kene tahu bahan antibac tu perlu masa contact time berapa lama utk dia bagi kesan bunuh kuman.
Kalau 2 info ni takde, means TAK OK. Jgn ambil risiko.
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@AnggunxXOXO
@malaymail
@DrAdhamBaba
@DGHisham
And this information has been circulating all over whatsapp. How could the highest post in a ministry share WRONG information to the entire Malaysian? Unacceptable.
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Of course I know "Formulated in" ≠ 'Made in". My question then was "Made in mana?"
As a chemist, I tak kisah sgt "formulated in" mana, sebab term tu adalah sangat longgar & not regulated. Means, anyone boleh claim "formulated in" mana without having to justify / give evidence.
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@sofearozaidi_
The one for hair tu. Or anyone ada jawapan? Bukan nak kecam, cuma nak tahu je coz I berminat nak beli haritu. But being me, I usually do some background check before beli apa2 produk. Maybe the seller lupa nak reply kot.
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But for me yang tahu hal ni, it is a concern for me. Contoh, produk OGX ni pun tak boleh guna sebab source collagen tak Halal.
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Mmg kalau kilang request, kene utamakan mereka ke? And then stok vaccine yang dah reserved tu masih disimpan atau dah bagi pada kilang?
Boleh tak jelaskan? Sebab kalau uols nak tahu lah kan, nombor telefon utk dihubungi tu mmg tak berjawab.
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@famen91
@aziziala1979
@malaymail
This is what he implies. Drink warm water to flush out the virus into your stomach where stomach acid will naturally kill them. None of these facts are true. And you don't think people will over drink?
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