Andy Hayler
@wyahaw
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Food Writer, Restaurant critic. Former blue check.
London
Joined July 2007
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Michel Guérard, who is 86 years young and still working in his kitchen, at Les Pres Eugenie, where he has held three Michelin stars for 42 years.
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Since my "10 Things Restaurants Should Do Less" list generated a lot of interest, it only seemed fair to produce a similar list of how customers could behave better in restaurants...
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Cheese board at Michelin-starred Le Champignon Sauvage in Cheltenham.
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Dining room at Lhardy in Madrid, which has been operating since 1839.
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Pate en croute at 3-star Michelin Atrio in Caceres in western Spain.
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Today
@michelguerard
received 3 Michelin stars (at the tender age of 83). He has now had 3 stars for 40 unbroken years. Congratulations!
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In August 1994 I set up . I'd like to thank all of you who have used it and interacted with me over those 23 years.
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My latest review (of Taku) is the thousandth London restaurant that I have reviewed. There are 1,986 global restaurants reviewed on my site, some multiple times (2,616 reviews in all). Thanks to all of you for the support over the years.
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For one of the restaurants I had booked in Tokyo, I was called up by the restaurant to explain that the head chef was feeling unwell and may not be there, so would I like to cancel my reservation rather than be cooked for by his sous chef? Can't see this catching on in London.
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Dedicated cheese room at two-star Michelin Moor Hall in Lancashire.
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I asked for a restaurant wine list so I could study it in advance rather than frantically leafing through pages in the dining room trying to make a hurried choice. Was told the list was “confidential”. Welcome to France.
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My first flight since March 2020 was to Dublin to try the new Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen.
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I hear that the great Italian chef Gualtiero Marchesi has died today at the age of 87. He was the first chef in Italy to gain 3 Michelin stars. R.I.P.
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The newly anointed three Michelin star Frantzen in Stockholm has just done its April reservations. 550 seats were available and 105,000 requests were made for those. Michelin still has an effect.
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I may have discovered the ideal cafe (Queens in Mayfair). Hedone pastries, Difference coffee and Krug champagne by the glass that is only marginally above its retail price.
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Venison Wellington served at The Harwood Arms in Fulham, the only Michelin-starred pub in London.
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My thoughts on The Grand Midland Dining Room in St Pancras.
This is the 2,000th restaurant to be reviewed on my website. Thanks for reading them over the years.
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Bresse chicken cooked in pig bladder at The Ritz in Piccadilly.
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Chicken chasseur at two Michelin star The Greenhouse in Mayfair.
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I have now eaten at all 113 three Michelin star restaurants in the world. Reviews are here:
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Fish being grilled in the open air at Kaia Kaipe in Getaria, not far from San Sebastian.
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Chef/owner David Everett-Matthias, who has never missed a service since Le Champignon Sauvage opened in 1987.
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Wood pigeon stuffed with veal sweetbread and foie gras at Michelin-starred The Crown at Burchetts Green, near Maidenhead.
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Coming up: highlights of my meal at 2 star Michelin Ynyshir in Wales. Buckle up: this will be a long sequence.
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In response to a Twitter conversation yesterday I have put up a review of Marco's The Restaurant from April 1997 based on my old notes. A bit of pure food nostalgia.
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A useful list of the best pintxos bars in San Sebastian with their specialty dishes by local expert Gabriella Ranelli
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The first British chef to be featured on Netflix's Chef's table is Asma Khan of Darjeeling Express. Her episode, a very personal one about her journey from Calcutta to law Phd to supper club host to restaurateur. is out today Worth a watch.
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Bread basket at two Michelin star Le Manoir au Quat' Saisons in Oxfordshire.
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If there is a prettier dining room than Gravetye Manor in Sussex then I am not sure I know about it.
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My thoughts on 3-star Michelin Atrio in Caceres in western Spain.
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My thoughts on Patrick Guilbaud, the only 2 star Michelin restaurant in Ireland.
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Chocolate souffle at 2 star Michelin Bibendum in South Kensington.
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Suckling pig roasting over an open fire at Ferme au Grives in the south west of France, the casual restaurant of Michel Guérard.
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Welcome to the recent followers that have taken my follower count to 20,000. Still barely a twentieth the following of Larry the Downing Street cat
@Number10cat
but progress nonetheless.
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Turbot and Brittany prawn at the Crown at Burchetts Green, where the chef works solo in the kitchen to produce Michelin-starred food.
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