Hairspring Watches
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Finds. Look closely at this 228235 Day-Date and you’ll find Arabic script in the aperture. Flip it over, and there’s a khanjar with crown. One of the last remaining bespoke production batch Rolex models, made at the very end of Sultan Qaboos bin Said’s reign, possibly at the
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Finds. A lapis dial 1601/8 on Jubilee, the only stone dial Rolex with even more real estate than any Day-Date. This gold 1601/8 would’ve cost its owner roughly the same amount as an entry Day-Date in 1979, which is a part of what makes these so special. They are the very essence
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Finds. A coral dial 18238 Day-Date. This is a stone dial that you almost never see outside of auction, widely agreed to be the rarest standard production stone dial from Rolex. They’re also extremely hard to buy today and not without their imitators. For all the effort though,
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Finds. A 43050 Mercator with a dial depicting the Americas. Introduced 1994, the Mercator draws on a long history of VC retrograde movements with an engraved enamel dial by Jean and Lucie Genbrugge. Each dial is said to take 12 days. This was the VC answer to the Star Wheel,
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Finds. This is a steel 5004, one of the final 50 5004s made to send it off in style. This was the first Perpetual Calendar Split Seconds wristwatch, a monumental achievement with many ingenious solutions buried in its calibre. So complex was it to make the 2310 a full rattrapante
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Finds. This isn’t tropical sun damage and it’s not even patina. This is Obsidian, a naturally occurring glass which forms when volcanic lava cools rapidly with minimal crystal growth. Some areas are of this volcanic dial are translucent, true glass. The areas here where you see
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Finds. This ref. 25643 is the world’s first self-wound tourbillon wristwatch, introduced in 1986. It is a delightful bundle of unique engineering solutions, such as the using the caseback as the movement bottom plate to achieve a 5.3mm thinness. 401 examples were made, numbered
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Finds. An Omega from a very distinct time and place, the very rare Farsi dial 2606 Cosmic Complete Calendar. Almost certainly sold in Tehran, it is a memento of a very different Iran, with a dial that could be aptly described as ‘Oily’ black thanks to decades of desert sun.
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Finds. A 222 Jumbo in steel, yes the legendary ref. 44018. Thought to be made in fewer than 100 examples, it’s Jorg Hysek’s ultimate design and arguably, many say, VC’s as well. Les Histories have revisited the 222 in gold, but steel remains the bastion of vintage and there’s
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Finds. The 222 never ceases to reveal its depth. After recently underscoring the rarity of a cream dial, touching on Roman numerals, and previously diving deep on Square Saudi Royal Family iterations, I thought I’d seen it all. Then this surfaces. A marker-less black dial with
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Finds. A 6036 Jean-Claude Killy in pink gold, the ultimate in vintage Rolex Chronographs. Fewer than 144 examples are thought to have been made in pink, which looks particularly sexy on bracelet. One of the most unusual Rolex Chronographs and certainly one of the more
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Finds. For the last year, I’ve been ruminating on what it means that the 222 is back. The Les Historiques 222 is just starting to land on the market en masse. What that means is up for debate, but I have a few thoughts. A deserving grail, modernized. Or is it?
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Available in Exclusives. A 191.028 Lange 1, from A. Lange & Söhne’s ‘Blue Series’, released in 2017. The 191.028 is the most recent of only 3 ‘Prussian’ blue dial references offered within the Lange 1 range. The Lange 1 is the foundation of modern Lange, perfectly capturing the
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Finds. A JPS 6239 (yes, metal bezel and not acrylic 6241) Daytona. JPS is the apex, or at very least an apex, of Daytona collecting, and this is a quite unique flavor. Likely about half as produced as the 6241 JPS, which is not exactly common to start. Condition is a clear
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Finds. A ref. 3947 Breguet Split Seconds, only the second ever Lemania 2310 (or 2320) ébauche to exist reworked as a rattrapante. The first, you may know, Patek’s legendary 5004. This was the second, with an isolator adapted from an early Frederic Piguet before Patek Philippe. As
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Finds. A Mk2 1665 ‘Double Red’ Sea-Dweller, with one of the most beautiful cappuccino-tropical dials you’ll find. The Mk2 still has the thin case as well. It calms my eyes like a home cooked meal in a world of constant fast-food dive watch releases. Magnificent thing.
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Finds. Meet the ref. 3055, better known as the Piccolo meaning ‘little one’ in Italian. Marketed through the 1930s-1950s as the world’s smallest chronograph, it shares more in common with a Patek 130 than Rolex 6265. Far cooler, it was the personal watch of one Enzo Ferrari who
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Finds. One of the greatest and largest steps forward from Glashütte, the ref. 740.036 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Tourbillon. A pusher to advance all calendar functions in lock step, diamond tourbillon jewel, and aesthetics referencing classic history like the Zeitwerk
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Finds. A Doré dial 3940, non-Beyer. Even seasoned Patek Philippe collectors often forget that the Doré tone continued past the initial 25 Beyer-signed 3940s, into second series. Many speculate that there are fewer of these non-Beyer doré than Beyers. This is an early second
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Finds. A lapis dial 18038 Day-Date with non-luminous hands and razor sharp lugs. This is the stone dial Day-Date classic in exceptional, worth considering if you’ve made it life already or are about to. And it reminds me of chocolate gelato and Gordon Ramsay. I promise I’m not
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Live in Exclusives. A Chronomètre Bleu, François-Paul’s most distilled and restrained offering. The Chronomètre Bleu features a 39mm mirror-finished tantalum case, blue dial crafted from multiple layers of hand-polished lacquer, and a beautifully-finished manual calibre 1304 with
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Live in Exclusives. A Cartier Tank Basculante ref. 2499C, one of two Basculantes released within the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) and the only to offer an exhibition caseback upon manipulation of the model’s rotating case design. It is a revival of both the original
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A Gold Flux Dial 182.086 ‘Little’ Lange 1. A perfectly judged 36.5mm take on the night sky from Glashütte. Worth remembering something from the automotive realm: the base spec model is almost always the most fun.
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Finds. A 5040G Perpetual Calendar, the first ever serially-produced Patek Philippe with Breguet numerals and pomme hands. Further, this is one of the best values in all Patek. Same calibre 240Q as the 3940, just a more daring and pebble-like case that divides opinion. Quite a
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An AP certain to upset the purists: the 6005ST Rectangular Royal Oak. Created to meet market demand, it’s a Royal Oak like the Cayenne is a Porsche. Supported the brand through the 80s, divisive thanks to quartz, and today generally accepted as a success.
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Finds. This is the 5402 that was never supposed to happen, in yellow gold. This was the watch that sustained the Royal Oak concept through its most uncertain period, when no one believed that steel was luxury yet, a margin-heavy beast which has been historically eclipsed by its
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Finds. This is an Omega that will be unfamiliar to most, the ref. 166.0195 Seamaster Cosmic, sometimes branded Cosmic 2000. A daring and anabolic case design with an integrated brutalism to rival a Royal Oak or even IWC Da Vinci ‘Muscle’ ref. 9602. Insanely 70s, but also an
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Finds. A Daytona rarer and arguably more interesting than a Paul Newman that few will have seen. This is a 6240, the first Oyster cased Daytona, with a ‘Solo’ dial. Solo, as it has just one line of text: Rolex. This is ultimate restraint from a brand who seems to have lost that
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Finds. A Tiffany 1680, the kind of Tiffany I can get behind (not LVMH in other words). One of the most subtle stamped dials, even if it is a wall of text above 6. And its tritium, well it’s as lovely as the dial deserves.
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Exclusives, live. A ref. 165.9.30 Odysseus, a mecha-quartz chronograph made in a limited, numbered series of 500 during the mid 80s. It features a tantalum case with rose gold inlays, pushers, crown, and dial furniture, meteorite-finish stone dial, and pulsations scale. The
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Finds. And it’s quite a lovely one. This is one of the all time great chronographs, if you know watches you’ll know the 1463. But this is 1 of 55 known in pink gold and further 1 of just 4 known that signed by Venezuelan retailer Serpico Y Laino. It’s blue chip, it’s coming to
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Finds. A dark burl wood dial 16019, on a matching white gold Oyster bracelet made at request. Thought to be one of fewer than five known, and about as stealth as a special dial precious metal Rolex can get. Or should I say Woolex.
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Finds. A 4300V Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar, pink gold with a blue lacquer dial. This is the alternative choice today if you want QP and you want it integrated/sporting. And yet, it’s just about perfect despite how little discussed it is.
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Finds. A 6605 ‘Overttone’ Datejust in pink gold, on its OG straight-end rivet Oyster in pink gold, and signed by Venezuelan retailer Serpico y Laino. This is likely, arguably, the most attractive Datejust you’ll see this year. A watch that oozes refinement and dare I say it, a
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Finds. A ref. 49005 Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in platinum with a vieux panier guilloché dial, thought to be 1 of 35. This was VC’s answer to the 3970, a beast at 106 grams of Frederic Piguet calibre 1185 column-wheel chronograph with VC’s own calendar
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A ‘Soirée’ 113.029 Little Lange 1 which pairs a 36.5mm white gold case with one of the most difficult to machine but stunning dials you’ll see in a Lange 1, white Mother of Pearl. Made for 3 years in the early 2000s, confirmed fewer than 75 examples made.
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Finds. Arguably the height of hardstone Day-Dates, this is Jasper in white gold. It’s not like yellow gold where a handful are for sale every year, in white precious fewer than 10 are known. Think of it like the JPS 6264 of early Day-Dates, 10ish known and impossibly collectible.
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Finds. A 5970R, which really does need to be discussed these days. The 5970 has been contentious for some time, the start of 40mm cases and the end of Lemania. Will it reach the loft heights of admiration the 3970 has? Time will tell. But that’s what’s we’re debating today.
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Finds. This is the RD2, ref. 26586IP, arguably the most technically brilliant Royal Oak yet created and still today the thinnest automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch ever made. It took the perpetual calendar architecture, which used to take 3 separate planes of bridges, and
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Finds. This is an anthracite dial 1803 Day-Date, a very unassuming but quite uncommon dial. Despite being a completely standard production, its one you almost never see and in 1803 only (nothing after). If the stone world is just too risky, Tiffany stamps are boring, and Stella
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Finds. A Boutique Edition Chronomètre Souverain, which means black guilloché and rose gold. There’s much to appreciate in the CS line outside the Bleu, and this is a fantastic example of the breed. Strange, that in most other brand catalogues it’s the guilloché dial that’s rare
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Finds. This isn’t a 96, nor is it precious metal. A 3923 Calatrava, one of a limited 50 examples with a silver dial only released in (you guessed it) Japan. Made in steel at the request of Isshin Tokei Co. Think of it as a neo-vintage 96, true to the original proportion but
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A new find up this morning, a 25686BA Royal Oak QP. The 25686 is somewhere toward the chronological middle of the 10-ish pre leap year indication references, and first to introduce a display back to the party. Made in 70 examples in yellow gold, it’s genesis to the complicated
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Finds. A coral red Stella dial 1803 Day-Date, the harder to find of the red tones and a Type 1 dial. This is multiple layers of lacquer built off by hand to achieve a dial which is as deep as it is loud. Stella dials were always made in small numbers, even relative to many stone
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Exclusives, live. A ref. 2916 Tank Louis Dual Time in pink gold, one of the rarest CPCP models from the final years of the collection. The 2916 features a dual rosette guilloché dial, case under 6mm thin, and Piaget ébauche calibre 9901 MC which allows all functions to be
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Finds. An incredible salmon Stella 1803. Easily one of the rarest Stella colors, and most attractive. Hand applied layers of built up lacquer, to form a deep pastel that’s unlike anything before or since.
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Finds. A perfect caramel tropical dial 105.003 Ed White, originally sold in Christchurch, NZ, hence the dial tone, aged brim black to chocolate by climate and UV. And still with its set. This is the original flavor of straight lug Speedmaster, the last before the Professional
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Finds. This is what happens. when you take a Reverso and force it to listen to Take Me Home Tonight by Eddie Money (what a jam) on loop for a year. One of the great results from Omega’s very experimental quartz years, the ref. 186.0013 Equinoxe with integrated bracelet. Half
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Finds. This watch, if you know Patek Philippe needs no introduction. It is a pink gold 1518, with a rather exceptional case, and it’s hammering this weekend. It is a watch far beyond most of our means, but still very much worth studying as the foundation of the brand we know
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Exclusives, live. An extremely rare, 1 of 25, ref. 5500V/110A-B433 Overseas ‘Latin America’ Edition. This very small numbered run was never publicized or covered by any major watch media, yet is by numbers the rarest 3rd generation Overseas Chronograph made. It was created in
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The world’s first ceramic-cased watch, the IWC 3705. IWC moved heaven and earth to create this Zirconium marvel. Thought to be produced in fewer than 1000 examples, it’s a total Death Star on wrist and one of the most legible dials out there.
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Finds. A 6240, the start of the screw down Daytona pusher, and a fabulous example. This a ‘small floating’ Daytona dial, one of the more concretely documented 6240 productions. It sports the correct and gorgeous millerighe pushers, and on a properly dated Jubilee, which was
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Finds. An ‘Italian Albino’ Speedmaster, ref. 3893.20, made in 500 examples for the Italian market in ’97 with this white dial which ages to cream. One of the most handsome and little-discussed early Speedmaster regional editions, it also was amongst the earlier iterations of a
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Finds. A 25686BA, the first pre-leap year Royal Oak QP to sport a display back. This is the apex Venn diagram intersection of complicated, sporting, and integrated. Arguably, AP has never bettered these 10-ish pre-leap year QPs, in proportion or style. For the 25686, this is one
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Finds. This is the Murakumo, from Japanese independent duo Kikuchi Nakagawa. The pair make about 8 watches per year, sold out for decades. The design is inspired by the classics of Patek Philippe, but entirely different detail. Its hands are particularly noteworthy, a sculptural
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Exclusives, live. A very early Type 1D from Tokyo-based independent watchmaker Naoya Hida. The Type 1 is Hida’s first and most easily understood design. Inspired by mid-century Patek Philippe Calatravas and pocket watches, the Type 1 reinterprets that essence toward contemporary
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Finds. A controversial Speedmaster made to commemorate the 50th Anniversary of Apollo XI. It features bimetal details, ceramic bezel, flat-link inspired bracelet, a solitary Arabic 11 marker in moonshine to celebrate Apollo, and the posterior of Buzz Aldrin climbing down the
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Exclusives, live. A ref. 15238 Date in 18k yellow gold with a sunburst dial that has faded into denim-teal tone with near fully-ghosted text print. Both are the effects of age and wear in sun. This is a 34mm case, made as alternative to the Datejust’s 36, with quickset date and
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Live in Exclusives. An exceptionally well-preserved 2913-3 Seamaster 300 with a Meister dial. This is example is from 1959 and made by its condition, which is world-class. The straight-lug, Hugenin Frères 39mm case is untouched, with a flawless bakelite bezel and completely
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Exclusives, live. A ref. 2452 in 18k pink gold from 1950, a highly styled 35mm Calatrava featuring long and aggressively stepped lugs, an ultra-thin 7.7mm midcase, and a concave bezel. The hard enamel dial sports a mix of Arabic and dagger indices under feuille hands. Across two
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One of the great Patek Philippe chronographs: 1463, here in rose gold no less. 145 produced in the metal, just 55 known. Francois Borgel case at a modernish 35.5mm. Fluted pushers. Enough variation between examples to make prog rock look uninspired.
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Live in Exclusives. A Trio in white gold, 1 of just 10 made. The Trio was Vianney Halter's third model, aspiring toward a distinctly futuristic aesthetic as imagined by the past. This retro-futurist aesthetic is realized in separated porthole apertures, where each digit of the
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Finds. This is the 6350, what many will argue is the first true Explorer. But that old debate has been sidelined, because what matters here is that this one is a honeycomb dial. Only seen for a few years at the start of some professional model Rolexes, this is really sort of the
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Finds. Arguably the holy grail of Day-Dates, a white gold bloodstone dial. A deep green with red veins, the stone is seen occasionally in yellow gold cases, but in white precious metal it’s far, far rarer. Fewer than 10 are known and each that surfaces is a big deal for the
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A Tiffany 16800. A sweet spot transitional Sub with matte dial, sapphire crystal, and quick-set date. Cream tritium. And the holy fifth line of text from all that is turquoise and luxurious.
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Finds. Hardstone dials are usually a thing for Rolex collectors. But if you’re so close with FP Journe that you’re texting, it might be a thing for you as well. This is a jade dial Tourbillon, made in fewer than ten examples and an absolute dream for all independent collectors.
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Finds. There aren’t many watches released in the last five years from non independents that get me fizzing. This is one, and you’ll all know it. An Overseas ‘Everest’ Chronograph, made in 150 examples in tribute to Cory Richard’s Everest expedition and the titanium prototype made
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Finds. A Mark 1, aka ‘Frog Foot, 1016 Explorer, with a great case and some very tan tritium. The Frog Foot is so named for its coronet, where the points splay out with a non-continuous arc. It is amongst the earliest matte dials, strangely seen in two different ranges of case
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Finds. A Tiffany dial 6263 in 14k yellow gold, an alloy made only for American import. It’s the sort of watch that just might be able to make a collector a one-watch person. Less common dial than a JPS and half the ask, though still absolutely eye-watering values.
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Finds. This is the first ever Speedmaster to have a moonphase, ref. 345.0809 better known as the ‘Speedymoon’. Between 85-89, fewer than 1300 examples are thought to have been made. It’s one of the most interesting and least seen Speedmasters around with a bunch of variation to
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Finds. A ref. 1530, the watch that came before the Oysterquartz with a mechanical calibre. The 1530 was only made between 1975 and 1977 in ~1500 examples, while Rolex were developing the Oysterquartz calibre, but already had the case ready to go. Quite the enthusiast cult classic
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Live in Exclusives. A well-preserved ref. 1675 GMT-Master from ’67 with a desirable, vibrant fuchsia bezel. The 1675 is one of the great pillars of vintage Rolex and this is inarguably one of its more attractive variants. This examples sports a correct Mark 0.5, ‘Long E’ dial
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Finds. The ‘Tiger Eye’ dial isn’t limited to just Day-Dates, and here the hardstone makes an appearance in a 1601 Datejust. Of all stone dial Rolex, this is the most of its time: unapologetically 70s. It’s Ballroom Blitz by the Sweet in wrist format, a symphony in brown.
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Finds. A strong ghost, ‘Havana’ dial 1802 Day-Date. An uncommon effect seen on grey and this light taupe (better known as Havana to collectors) dial Day-Dates, UV exposure will simultaneously lighten the dial tone and warm the text. A little lacquer interaction means that at
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A Royal Navy 5513 Milsub. Perhaps the watch to best exemplify Rolex’s attitude in the 60s: tools for a profession, intended to serve hard use and no more. I’d crawl through the forest, jungle, and desert for 8 years if the SAS were giving out these today.
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An earned ’25 Years Service’ Coca-Cola signed 6565 Oyster Perpetual. Made in an era where Coca-Cola wasn't a drink, but an institution of Americana. Given to one ‘Ward G. Wells’ with a white dial (rather uncommon for these signatures). Damn cool.
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Finds. An early second series 3940P, yes, a crosshair-less dial with a solid platinum back. This is quite a nuanced and rare iteration of the breed, but I believe we all need to discuss just what the 3940 means to Patek Philippe’s story today. It’s a well-established modern
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The sole Rolex to most strongly demonstrate the appeal of a warm tritium dial, the ‘Chicchi di Mais’ 16570. It features the same porcelain-style lacquer construction of the milky 16520 Daytona, contrasted against a tritium that was liable to tan cream.
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Finds. This is the earliest wood dial Day-Date, a ref. 1803 with what is known as a Sequoia dial. The process was nothing like the lacquered birch that came later, here the wood was cut with text printed straight on the porous material. They’re extremely uncommon and quite a cool
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Finds. A killer lightly tropical 6265 with a 90% dark chocolate dial. From its original purchaser, with a patina that really suits the more subtle, non big red Daytona variant.
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Finds. One of the rarest stone dials of standard Rolex production, the elusive red jasper. Red jasper is considerably less seen than green jasper, and, interestingly, has only been observed in Datejusts thus far. There are a handful of documented sales and they always make your
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Finds. A gilt dial 1601 Datejust on a Gay Frères. It is an example made by its details with warm text, a very finely cut early bezel, and gloss dial, and dauphine hands. One of the most elegant iterations of vintage Datejust around.
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Finds. A ref. 1625 ‘Thunderbird’, one of a handful of examples known in pink gold and with a burgundy-tropical gilt dial. The result of an unlikely partnership between the USAF Thunderbirds and Rolex, it’s an unsuspecting but monumentally interesting bit of early Rolex aviation
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A first series 401.026 1815 Chronograph. Basically, a 2.3mm thinner Datograph with no date. But this first series had a complex four-layer dial construction with pulsations scale. Made for four years, then replaced by an 1815 chronograph with neither. A modern classic.
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Finds. A ‘walnut’ burl wood 16019 Datejust in white gold, one of the rarest Datejust dials ever made. This is a far darker wood tone than the birch you’ll be used to, and not in a Day-Date. There are very likely fewer than 25 of these surviving out there today. Love this dial for
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Finds. Something of a final boss for Speedmaster lovers. A ‘Red Racing’ dial 145.012-67, non-professional, one of fewer than ten examples known. You’ll be familiar with the grey and orange racing dials in 145.022 and 145.012, meet their far rarer and slightly more evil-looking
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An El Primero very far down the Zenith collector rabbit hole: the Espada Sub Sea Moonphase. Produced in fewer than 750 examples across two references, this is the ultimate 70s-looking complicated chrono. And it was the world’s first automatic chronograph with full calendar and
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A Mk3 A386 El Primero, arguably the most technically competent automatic chronograph of the ’60s, and certainly the most recognizable design. Tri-color subs, thought to be one of ~1500 examples and an exceptional one at that.
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Finds. This is the scarcely seen ref. 96061 Santos Dumont ‘Deux Ors’, so named for a two-tone construction that’s all gold. This is the 70s Santos Dumont with a yellow gold midcase and white gold bezel. Cartier of the 70s was simply too refined for steel. It sports a distinct
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Finds. A ‘Concorde’ 1675 GMT-Master, so named for its straight baton handset, the kind you’d normally see on a Daytona, which was only available in gold. The gold case and handset were immortalized in one of Rolex’s iconic ads, contrasting this GMT on a pilot’s wrist with the
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Live in Exclusives. An exceptionally well-preserved 1680 Submariner featuring a deep pumpkin tritium dial. The white dial Submariner date was introduced in 1976 and set the blueprint for many iterations to come later, but remains the only Submariner date with acrylic crystal. The
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The most innovative chronograph from the ’30s, a 13ZN in remarkable condition. This 1936 example is from the early years and one of the rare 13ZNs without a flyback complication, but with the desirable round pushers and step case.
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Live in Exclusives. A 25573BA Day-Date with a Tiffany & Co signed dial. The 25573 is a 34mm ultra-thin, self-winding Day-Date, the first of its kind from AP. This is the only known example with a Tiffany dial and it is also the only known entirely gold dial. It is one of the most
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Finds. A Galet Traveller with a blue meteorite dial, 1 of 15 made. This is the beautifully executed natural escapement travel time, with pushers on its case side to adjust the hour hand quickly, while the aperture at 9 indicates home time. One of the most refined takes on the
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Finds. A ref. 1530 Oyster Perpetual Date, otherwise known as the mechanical Oysterquartz. Made for just two years starting 1975, it was intended to bridge the gap between the Oysterquartz case, which was ready, and the movement itself which took longer than expected. Thought to
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Finds. An early Roger Dubuis H37 Perpetual Cal, with a very desirable wave-guilloché black dial. Made in just 28 examples, this a far cry from the RD we know today. Unlike many modern independents, the master’s hands absolutely touched this watch. And it was regulated by Roger so
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Finds. A Datejust that’s unlike most. This is a red jasper 1600/8, one of the rarest stone dials ever made, one of a handful known. But this example is a smooth bezel on a rivet Oyster, where most all previously seen are fluted on Jubilee. It’s sporting, extremely special, and
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Finds. A Mother of Pearl dial 1186 Blancpain Split Seconds. This is the only example publicly known. This reference was the world’s first automatic split seconds. Moreover, the world’s thinnest automatic chronograph movement for over two decades. And quite simply, this is the
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Finds. One independent upstart whose integrated sports watch goes about things a bit differently: the Czapek Antarctique. I always wondered how a young independent created a movement this engaging from scratch, turns out the founder with the most watchmaking experience came from
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Finds. One very rare, nuanced collector Omega. This is the ref. 145.005 ‘Ultraman’ Omega Seamaster 321, a reverse-panda chronograph surrounded in mystery, thought to be one of 10-20 examples. And a massive value today.
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