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A little piece I wrote about a particular village in Turkey that I visited in October 2021.
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Walking randomly today I found an old Soviet era underpass in Kanaker ,Yerevan. Not in use anymore since it’s full of rubbish and looks like the homeless use it as shelter. I believe it was used by the Electrical Lamp factory workers, the factory no longer in use.
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In the Armenian quarter known today as bey mahallesi in Aintab/Gaziantep Turkey. This is probably the only intact inside of a former Armenian home left. You can still see some writing in Armenian. I found approx 4 Armenian churches, one is now a mosque and the rest gov buildings
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1)Vartanush Avakian from Vank. She was on the bus leaving Artsakh. It was her birthday that day and she turned 92. I ran to the nearest shop to buy her something sweet to celebrate. No idea where she is going or if she will ever return to her village. She’s seen it all. 06/10/20
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Some Armenian cross carvings in Kilittaşı village (Turkey), a now Kurdish settlement but former Armenian village called Bagaran. The kid in the first photo is a young Kurdish shepherd named “Ararat”. He had no idea what his name meant but showed me the old stones.
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Probably my favourite Soviet era factory in Yerevan, Armenia. Still in use and full of Soviet artworks. They still make diamond cutting tools and machines. The admin section is full of amazing things.
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Finally made it to Meghri after living in Armenia for 2 years. No longer living there but popped back for a week to explore some places and see old friends. I think 80% of my Armenian friends haven’t been to Meghri. They should go it’s breathtaking.
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Horomos monastery founded by Armenian monks fleeing the Byzantine empire in the 10th century. Built during the reign of Bagratuni King Abas of Ani. It was described as one of the most important monasteries of the Christian east.
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The Armenian Church of the Holy Apostles in Ani. A broken inscription tells of a donation by Abughamir Pahlavuni in 1031. Last year I posted photos from a visit in 2017. These shots are from last year.
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The Armenian Monastery of Saint Thomas (Monastery of Surp Tovmas of Kantzag). Dating back to roughly the 11th century, it’s located on the south shores of Lake Van on top of a mountain.
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The abandoned Syriac village of Qelet or today known as Dereici in Turkish in Mardin Province, Turkey. Contains ruins of churches and homes. Attacked by Kurdish tribes during the Hamidan massacres the population slowly migrated away. Majority found their way to Sweden in the 80s.
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1)Found the Azeri(Karapapakh) cemetery in Amasia, Armenia. Tombstones were in very good condition mostly and I’d say 90% were still standing. The cemetery is surrounded by agricultural land and the farmers seem to just let the cemetery be. I saw one tombstone that was propped up
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One of my favourite Soviet era mosaics in Armenia by artist Valentin Podpomogov. Probably dates back to the 70s.
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The 19th century Armenian Virgin Mary church in Kayseri, Turkey. Today it serves as a library. Frescoes and Armenian script still visible. It’s 1 of 2 apostolic churches in the centre of Kayseri today.
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The Armenian monastery of Saint Bartholomew,in the modern town of Başkale, Van.The monastery was built on the traditional site of the martyrdom of Bartholomew the Apostle. Over the mountains and into Iran is the church built on the martyrdom site of Thaddeus, that’s still in use.
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The 15th century Armenian Ktuts monastery in Lake Van, Turkey. Located on a small island also named Ktuts. In summer there’s usually a boatman but there wasn’t one this time so we had to send the drone. Manuscripts saved from here are located in Matenadaran, Yerevan.
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Another Soviet era mosaic find in Armenia. It could be my last since I think there isn’t any really left to find now. I managed to track about 30-40. This one is hidden locked away on private land, I had a feeling whilst looking at the building from distance something is inside.
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An abandoned rest house in Armenia. Probably dating from the late 70s. Met a family there that lives inside and looks after the slowly decaying building. It was last used as a hotel up to the late 90s.
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The church of Saint Minas, Saint George and the Chapel/Tomb of Bagratuni King Ashot III located at the Horomos monastery complex on the Turkish side of the border with Armenia.
Dating back to the 10th century. The 2 churches were built during the reign of King Gagik of Ani.
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One of many old medieval Armenian cemeteries found around Lake Van in modern Turkey. There were 2 churches and a monastery next to this cemetery, only the foundations remain. The area in those days was known as Vaspurakan.
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The former Armenian church in Tbilisi called the holy cross, found in the old Armenian cemetery. It was consecrated as a Georgian church in 1992. All Armenian texts removed. I’ll talk about the cemetery in another post.
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1) The Armenian monastery of Khtzkonk in Digor, formerly Tekor in the Kars district. Locals say the monastery was blown up by Turkish military sometime between 1920-1950. All that’s left is the Saint Sargis church. There are visible ruins of the other churches dotted around.
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Kamravank Monastery (Red Monastery in Armenian) in Van founded by King Gagik in the 10th century. It’s located not far from the shores of Lake Van in a hidden valley.
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Took this in 2019 at the Armenian Aparank monastery between Erzincan and Erzurum. I saw the monastery being used as a barn, it’s hard to get here which is good so people can’t easily destroy it. The khatchkars are dated 1191 and 1194. Beautiful views all around.
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Some Armenian things including the doors of Kars cathedral (now mosque) found in the Kars museum. Of course they are not labelled Armenian but Georgian or Russian. Look carefully under the birds for a long Armenian inscription.
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The Armenian cemetery in Kars. Found at the top of a hill facing the castle but in ruins. Not sure from which century they are from. There were many but destroyed and some treasure hunter pits. It was a long walk up the hill.
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1)The ghost village of Madan, Armenia. It was mostly populated by Pontus Greeks who were invited over to work in the mines by King Irakliy of Georgia in the 1760s. Today only a few elderly Greeks remain. Most of the Greek residents migrated to Greece even though they were from..
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Managed to see the Armenian 7th century cathedral of Mren in Turkey close to the Arm border for 10 mins before the Turk military came to take me away for questioning.I saw the inscription of Roman Emperor Heraclius on the portal. It was the buffer between Byzantines and Sassanids
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The Armenian Khachkars found in Değirmenaltı, formerly Por in Bitlis. They are said to be dated from 14th/15th century. St Anania church, which is next to these cross stones dates from 6th/7th century. Another stone is used as part of a fountain but we couldn’t find it.
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The old Armenian school in Balat, Istanbul. Now used by immigrant waste collectors, previously used as a car park. I peaked inside before the workers shouted at me to leave. It’s full of rubble and waste collected by the workers.
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The Ktuts (beak in Armenian) monastery in Lake Van. It’s a 15th century monastery but the foundations are said to have been laid earlier by St Gregory the illuminator. Its said that the hand of St John the Baptist was kept here, which is now held by the Armenian Patriarchate.
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The Chess room of a former Soviet era factory in Armenia that’s no longer working. The room still has some old reliefs there. The most standout was the sickle hammer with cosmonauts and workers surrounding it. An old worker told me he would play Chess here in the golden days.
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An amazing Soviet era mosaic re-discovery I made the other day. Believe it dates to the 80s and the artists last name is Ghalamkaryan. Found in Armenia. In an old factory culture house.
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2 Armenian Khachkars from Ani, Turkey (Kars Region). I’m sure there must be more buried in the ancient Bagratuni city. 2nd pic is from a friend of mine.
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The Armenian St Sargis church in Digor, Kars (Turkey). It’s the only one standing out of 5 churches that were present here. Built sometime in the 10th century it was in use up until 1920. Locals say when the area was a military zone the Turkish army blew up the other 4 churches.
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Visited Surp Karapet in Muş province and here’s what I found. It’s practically demolished with some signs of the past scattered around. The Kurdish elders told us the Armenian past of the area and this village. I believe it was the 2nd most important monastery after Etchmiadzin
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Adding some more high quality photos of the Armenian cemetery found at the foothills of Ararat. I posted about my visit there last year in the below tweet.
The cemetery that belonged to Akori village at the foothills of Ararat. The village was destroyed in a landslide in 1840 along with its Saint Hakob church. The Khachkars are plentiful but there are signs of treasure hunters. Akori is still there under rocks and rubble.
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Came across that big Lenin head in Tajikistan. It sits at the top of a stairwell laying abandoned. Took me some time to really track it down.
@sovietvisuals
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Heard about the passing of Armenian artist Vladamir Atanian. He created some amazing art works during the Soviet period of Armenia that included sculptures, paintings and mosaics. I’ll attach some of my favourites.
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2 more buildings built by Armenian Ottoman architect Sarkis Lole between 1895-98 in Mardin.The bigger building on the right was built as a school. The smaller building to the left was rumoured to be the house of a wealthy Armenian family. Today both serve as schools.
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In the mountains of Çatak, Van province Turkey. We found an old Armenian church but were unable to get a look inside. I can’t remember the village name but a lovely young Kurdish girl on horseback showed us around.
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This morning in Kars me and
@FellowPrimo
visited what is called Kümbet Kilesi. It’s an Armenian church probably from the 10th century. Don’t really know much about it. Maybe from Bagratid era. It’s off the main highway in the middle of a vast field.
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1)The Armenian Çermeyan family mansion in Mardin. It was built by chief architect Sarkis Lole. Abdulaziz Şahkulubey stole the house after the events of 1915 and many years later his ancestors added their family name/ Islamic text on the building and a hideous 3rd floor extension
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A 1970s Soviet era mural in a former beer house in Gyumri. Today it serves as a restaurant and bar. The former beer house was very popular in the Soviet days some elders told me. The artist of the mural is Vart Paronyan.
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Been to Ani 3 times and still haven’t seen everything. The ancient Armenian Bagratid capital. Here is a video I made. Had to split it in 2 parts. To see the whole thing it’s on my YTube just search avarathewanderer.
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An old Soviet era shoe factory in Syunik, Armenia. They once produced shoes for Olympic athletes of the USSR as well as regular shoes. Not much left today but found a bunch of sample shoes they used to manufacture.
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Photos by friend Sinan of the Armenian Saint Thomas monastery on the shores of Lake Van in Turkey. The monastery dates back to the 11th-13th century and was said to contain the remains of Saint Thomas, which were moved here from Edessa (Urfa).
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A rare Soviet era bas relief to find in Armenia. It was the entry to a block of apartments but now has become a retail shop. Luckily the owners of the shop didn’t destroy the relief, which was created by female artist Ruzan Kyurkchyan (1930-2002) sometime between 60s and 70s.
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The Palace of Arshakuni. Vardan Arshakuni – a rich Armenian merchant, honorary citizen of Tbilisi, and between 1858 and 1860 mayor of the city commissioned this building for him to reside. Construction started in 1856 but he died in 1862 and never saw the finished version.
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Found this great 2 sided Armenia SSR related flag in an old factory. The boss man said I can take it. It’s as if I just unboxed it but it was sitting in the corner of the office for the last 30 years untouched.
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The 10th century Armenian church named Taylar. It’s located on the Turk-Arm border but on the Turkish side. Just across the river border sits its twin church in Haykadzor village. It’s left to die alone with no one to care about it. The Akhurian river and views were amazing.
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Explored the small village of Ani-Pemza that contains the ruins of a 5th century Armenian basilica called Yererouk. One of the oldest structures showing Armenian architecture. It’s down the river from Ani and is a very important site because of the age.
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The huge Soviet era ceiling art inside the medical university building in Yerevan, Armenia. Dated to the 70s and by artist Rudolf Gargaloyan.
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The 2nd Armenian church in the centre of Kayseri. It’s called Surp Krikor Lusavoriç ( Saint Gregory) and dates to mid 19th century. Met an Armenian Turkish man there called Sargis who is the caretaker. Ring the bell and he will let you in.
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Happy to have found this Soviet era mosaic in Armenia before it gets covered up. Located in Yerevan it was a former radio shop in Soviet era and since has been many different things. It’s always been locked but this time I managed to enter. Probably dates to late 70s early 80s.
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The cathedral of Talin is a 7th century Armenian structure in the Aragatsotn region of Armenia. Commissioned by Prince Nerses Kamsarakan and partially destroyed by earthquakes. Reminded me of the churches left in Ani, same stone work and same architecture and both Armenian
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The cemetery that belonged to Akori village at the foothills of Ararat. The village was destroyed in a landslide in 1840 along with its Saint Hakob church. The Khachkars are plentiful but there are signs of treasure hunters. Akori is still there under rocks and rubble.
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Soviet era relief by artist Vladamir Atanian called “Health is life”. Yerevan, 1976. In the foyer of an institute.
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Soviet era sculptures dedicated to WW2 heroes in the Ararat province of Armenia. They date to the 70s. Artist unknown.
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The House of Relics found on the north side of Horomos Monastery. This Armenian architectural gem dates back to sometime in the 10th century. It consists of 3 structures, 2 mausoleums and the reliquary.
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Looks like an evil villains lair but it’s the Yerevan Botanical Gardens. Built in the late 1930s during the Soviet era. A lot of people miss this off on their itineraries. It’s well worth the visit.
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The mansion of Armenian family named Tüfenkçiyan in Mardin now the Ceris Murat restaurant. It was built in 1888 by Ottoman Armenian chief architect Sarkis Lole. The Tüfenkçiyan family left for Aleppo in 1947. They sold on the property which is now a restaurant.
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What’s interesting about walking around Yerevan is that you find so many amazing abandoned places like this Palace of Culture from the Soviet era. Left in a bad state. There was a theatre too but it was in total darkness. Architect Razmik Alaverdyan. 1962.
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The Armenian church of St Stepanos in the village of Gesi-Bahçeli (Efkere) of Kayseri. It was built/re-built many times, the first known mention of it from a manuscript from 1683 by Simeon the Scribe.The current structure, which remains partially standing, dates from 1871.
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The late 18th century Armenian church of St Toros in Tavlusun district of Kayseri, Turkey. Damaged and hit by treasure hunters. There are nearby Greek churches too.
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An old Soviet era sanatorium in Arzni, Armenia. Now abandoned and totally stripped. I’ve seen old black and white photos of it showing that it was once in use.
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Tufa stone patterns on the front of the entrance building of a former Soviet factory on the edge of Yerevan, Armenia. Not sure what they made there but rumours say it was an old Soviet era weapons factory. Now it looks to be slowly going under renovation.
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5) She remembered me, she cried when she saw me. I don’t know what was going through her head at the time. She smiled as she recounts the story of me giving her a mars bar on her birthday as she fled her village of Vank. She said a lot that my taxi driver couldn’t translate 😅
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The Bardzrakash Monastery in Lori province, Armenia. It’s a 10th-13th century monastery built in the forest next to a deep canyon. It contains the cemetery of the Armenian dynastic family of Mamikonyan. It’s likely the monastery was abandoned when mongols swept through this area.
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1)The Monastery of the Holy Cross at Soradir, known as Yanal Church also. Dating back to the 6th century. It’s a very unique design and one of my favourites. Sadly It’s all that’s left of the Armenian monastery complex. Me and
@FellowPrimo
found a load of Khachkars too.
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Some Armenian Khachkars on display in Van archaeological museum. There is a room solely for Christian era artefacts. The rest of the museum has Urartu artefacts etc.
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The ex Persian consulate building in Yerevan on Hanrapetutyan Street. The architect was German Mikhail von der Nonne. It was the first consul they built here sometime in the late 1800s. Great place to visit, you have to enter via the ICOMOS door to the left and ask for the key.
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There are over 300 Armenian tombstones scattered in the Armenian cemetery in Köprübaşı, where Muslim tombstones have been added later. This is in the Kayseri district of Turkey. Don’t know the old history of the place but there was mostly Greeks here but still plenty of Armenians
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In the village of Rya Taza, Armenia. There are animal shaped tomb stones in the cemetery. Ruins of a 10th century Armenian church too. Today the village is mostly Yezidi, there is a newly built Yezidi temple too.
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The Soviet era “Composers Union”, Armenia. Architect: Levon Hovhannesyan, Reliefs: Benik Petrosyan. 1970. Luckily it was saved from privatisation many years ago and still belongs to the union. Otherwise it would have been renovated and modernised into something ugly.
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1) The mansion of the Armenian Incemyan family, a rich merchant family in Mardin. The chief architect was of course Sarkis Elyas Lole and was built sometime in the late 19th century. Today it’s known as the AbdulKadir Pasha mansion. How it came to be so is a harrowing story
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1) A further look on Iskender Atamyan (Atamian) and his story in Mardin. He was murdered in 1915 and was among the first caravan full of elites and rich merchants of Mardin. They were led in chains as they exited the town. The photo is the entrance door of his home.
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2 Armenian church structures still standing in old Van. Against the citadel wall you can find lots of carved crosses going high up. There are also ruins of 2 mosques. Not much is left of old Van. The museum of Van contains some Kachkars, I posted about it last year.
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A very interesting mural from 1974 in the Soviet culture house of Apaga. Depicting the resistance of Sassoun. Soviet authorities were against the nationalistic mural at the time but the village voted for it. Most residents originally came from Sassoun fleeing the Ottoman Empire.
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Another bas relief by sculptor Ruzan Kyurkchyan in Yerevan. It’s now converted into a bar and the art work saved. Previously it was a strip club as well as other thing and the art work was obscured from view. Commissioned sometime in the mid 1980s. Nice place for a beer now.
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The Katoghike church of Avan. Built sometime in the late 6th century at the end of the Byzantine-Sassanian war. It’s the old surviving Armenian church within Yerevan. The area at time was under Byzantine control and the church was built during the reign of Emperor Maurice
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An amazing Soviet era tea house in Dushanbe, Tajikistan. It was built in 1958 using a lot of Persian architectural elements. It was due to be destroyed so more apartment blocks could be built but it was saved by the locals.
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An old Soviet era culture house or pioneer palace I came across in Armenia. Mostly destroyed, one section is used as an office and bank, the other side where the cinema used to be is trashed but luckily the amazing bas relief is still intact.
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Me and
@FellowPrimo
are planning an ambitious project to document Armenian heritage in historic Armenia (eastern Turkey). If you can help and spread our fundraiser that would be much appreciated! Please read the description on the page for more info!
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Arshaluys or Sunshine sculpture, located on the Yerevan - Sevan highway, in Armenia. The monument was designed in 1977 by Armen Harutyunyan during the Soviet period. Probably one of my fave ones in Armenia.
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The 5th century Armenian church of St John in Mastara, Armenia. The Kars cathedral design is based on this church, architecturally they are very similar. Supposedly relics of John the Baptist are buried here, they were brought over by St Gregory.
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An abandoned Soviet era conference room/theatre in Armenia. Featuring Lenin on the Armenian SSR flag. This was the culture house of the factory and totally unused today.
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Finally managed to visit the 7th century Armenian Holy Mother of God church right on the border with Azerbaijan. The church is surrounded by the former Az village of Lower Askipara. I saw the Muslim cemetery in the distance, it was still standing.
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Me and
@FellowPrimo
visited The Holy Savior Monastery of Tortan (Grave of the Nine Saints). According to legends it was the burial site of King Drtad III and his family members. The village is practically abandoned. You pass the newer village before entering this old Armenian one
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The Armenian Church of the Holy Apostles in Ani. A broken inscription tells of a donation by Abughamir Pahlavuni in 1031. I think this church is easily missed when people visit Ani. Khatchkars inside have mostly been destroyed.
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An Azerbaijani Muslim cemetery I stumbled across is Vorotan, Armenia. Seems to have been 2 types of cemeteries next to each other. One from the Soviet period and one from the Russian Imperial rule (pic 4). The Armenian cemetery is on the other side of the this small hill.
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The Soviet house of culture in Arshaluys, Armenia. Had to jump up from the basement through a small gap to get in but it was worth it. Don’t really know much about it other than the roof has collapsed and it’s been shut for many years. The government should restore it.
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An old Soviet era factory in Armenia. Some sections have been rented out like this one. It’s a former boardroom that still has the Lenin mural on the wall. The man who has a workshop there said to me “Take it if you want it, we don’t like it”.
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What’s left of the Amenaprgič Vank (Kaymakli Monastery). An Armenian Apostolic Monastery on top of Boztepe Hill, near Trabzon. Built sometime in the early 15th century. Looks like people moved into and destroyed most of the monastery buildings. Homes have been built on the site.
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1)The 10th century Armenian Church of the Holy Cross on Aghtamar island, Van. It’s been through a lot, a dodgy renovation, an order for its total demolition in the 50s, drama putting a cross on the dome. and the gruesome acts on the island during 1915
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Varagavank Monastery, known locally as Yedi kilise in Van,Turkey. Founded in the early 11th century by Senekerim-Hovhannes Artsruni, the Armenian King of Vaspurakan. Mehmet the old man who looks after this place wasn’t around but his wife was, who let us in to see it.
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Some photos from the viewpoint of Hripsime monastery overlooking the Ani bridge. Below is an older tweet from my 4th visit to Ani showing the monastery. Will be interesting to see the bridge reconstructed and Armenians able to cross direct to visit a part of their history.
Virgins monastery aka St Hripsime Monastery located on the cliff edge in Ani overlooking the Akhurian river. The Armenian monastery is said to date back to the 11th/12th century. Again this is not sign posted and technically you aren’t allowed to come down here.
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